YOU FLOAT A BOAT, NOT STABILIZER – Hooping skills 101

Many years ago, when I was just starting with embroidery I read some information about embroidery and running a successful business, and the thing I remember most was this:
“YOU ARE ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR HOOPING SKILLS”
That made a lot of sense to me at the time, but I didn’t realize the vast importance of this statement. For example, you can have a beautiful design that looks amazing on the computer, and when you stitch it out, it looks terrible. Why? It all comes down to your hooping skills! Hooping skills do not mean just hooping things straight or hooping difficult items, hooping skills also means knowing the proper stabilization for your items that you are embroidering. Hooping skills makes the difference between OK embroidery and WOW embroidery. Which brings us to the topic of today’s blog: FLOATING STABILIZER.
The message I would like to get across is “floating is for boats, not for stabilizer”. This is what I hear often in many, many groups “ I hooped 1 layer of cutaway and floated tearaway, and it still looks awful”. Yes, yes it will because that piece of tearaway is doing zero good. ZERO. Other than making your embroidery thicker, and possibly pulling down the stitches on the top to compensate for the thickness, floating is not doing any good.
Let’s look at this logically. What is stabilizer? Why do we even use stabilizer? Stablizer is a type of material that makes the pretty material more stable for you to embroider on. That is the key there, STABLE – meaning strong and sturdy. If you are floating something and not hooping it, how is it helping to make your fabric more stable? That floated piece is not holding your fabric still – it’s floating around under your hoop…floating free, like the wind, not providing stability to anything! If you hoop two layers of tearaway or hoop 1 layer of tearaway and float a second, which one do you think will be better? Guaranteed it is the 2 hooped layers because they are helping to make the embroidery more stable and strong, which translates into clear and perfectly placed embroidery.

Some designs that you may have will have a small black outline to them. And most of the time when you stitch this out, that small black outline will be out of registration. Why? Because the material wasn’t stable enough for the embroidery, that’s why! When things go out of registration it is because the fabric has MOVED because it isn’t stable enough. Having the material move 2mm to the left is going to be an issue for that small black line! And, if that line is out of registration, it will make your whole embroidery design look awful. The solution is not to blame the digitizer as most do, the solution is to provide more stability to your fabric in the hoop!
One of the things I spend my “free” time doing is teaching  people the proper way of embroidery so that especially on your own designs, you get amazing results. People float all of the time, and some digitizers are putting floating in their instructions…and you are setting your customers up for a fail, and they will complain, and you are not doing your digitizing any justice by instructing people to float stabilizer to try and make your work look better. For best results, HOOP IT.

You can take your cues from things that are right in front of you. For example, Hatch and other embroidery software  has this cool feature where you can pick a fabric type (cotton, leather, polyester) and Hatch will actually tell you what that fabric requires for stabilizers!! It is all right in front of you!! And please take note, not one of the stabilizer recommendations say to float anything – not a single one.

Ahhhh, the answer is right there!!

So what does that tell you? That tells you that the professional embroiderers that have been the top of the embroidery business for 30 years are not recommending floating any stabilizer!!! Why would you not follow their recommendations? (I mean that jokingly, of course, don’t take me too seriously here, but it is a good question!!) Wilcom knows their stuff, they have been doing it, and doing it well for 30 years, and they are the top of the “embroidery food chain” for a reason. So listen to them, and stop floating anything. You can float a boat, or a duck can float, but please don’t float your stabilizer!!

Hooping skills include being able to hoop properly, with the right tension, having the hoop tight enough, placement of the hoop so that the embroidery is straight AND USING THE RIGHT STABILIZER. And all of these things make a big difference to your embroidery.
Let’s say it one more time together “YOU ARE ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR HOOPING SKILLS “…. And say that to yourself each and every time you embroider a design – are my hooping skills correct? Do I need to do some research on what kind of stabilizer is correct? And when you have a design that has stitched and doesn’t look quite right, it may be the digitizer, but more often than not, it’s user error for lack of the correct stabilizer.
Let’s do this right – do not float stabilizer and let’s have some awesome embroidery stitching out!

Hooping skills: your embroidery will thank you!
Happy Digitizing!

Sue

aka The Economical Embroiderer

Want to learn more?  check out my YouTube channel OMLEmbroidery.  Everything I do is free. Yep, FREE.  100 + videos and counting. Learn and have fun.

What do you know about nodes? Save time with editing nodes!

Working with object nodes will save you time in the end.  If you make a mistake digitizing, you don’t have to start all over again – simply edit the nodes!!

Nodes are those little points that you place down every time you click the mouse when you are making an object.  Left click makes a straight node, and a right click makes a curved node.  What happens if you make a mistake, or want to change something in your object?  That is when the nodes come in handy.   Let’s go over a few things with nodes that will make object editing easier and faster than ever.

Once you have completed your object, and you want to make changes, the first thing you need to do is select the object (by clicking on it) and then click on the Reshape Icon  at the top left of your screen (this works for Wilcom E4 and Wilcom Hatch, but your sofware will be similar – look for editing nodes, nodes, edit button.   Once you click on that, the nodes will appear!  Now you can start working with the nodes to change or fix your embroidery object.

how to select nodes

There are two different kinds of nodes:  straight nodes and curved nodes.    The small yellow square indicates a straight node that forms a straight line or a cusp.  The light blue circle indicates a curved line.  Pretty easy to remember, right?  Square for straight, and circle for curves.

how to make curvesTo work with a specific node, you need to select that node first.  You can also select a bunch of nodes by left-clicking and dragging a bounding box around a group of nodes.  Once you click on a node, the node should turn dark blue – that is the darker blue color that lets you know that the node is now selected .  The other nodes will appear yellow.  These colors apply for Wilcom Hatch and Wilcom E4 – your software may have a different color scheme, but once you play around in “node mode” you will figure out the difference between selected nodes and non selected nodes.

Once you have selected that node, you can click and hold down your left mouse button and drag that node around and change your object.  If you were not precise enough in your node placement, you can quickly hop into reshaping (select your object first) and align your nodes,  and zoom right in and place them where they need to be placed!

Another thing you can do with nodes is change their type!  Yes you can – you do not need to delete and start your object all over again, you can do some fixing.  You can change your node from a curve to straight (circle to square) and vice versa – from a straight to a curve!  All you have to do is select the node (make sure it is dark blue) and hit the spacebar, and the node will change for you!  Of course, that will make big changes to your object, so if you don’t like it, hit spacebar again and it will go back to where you started – either back to a straight node, or a curved node.

There are a few more things you can try.  What happens if you add too many nodes or have nodes that you don’t need?  Select the node and hit the delete key.  It is that simple – select and delete and your node is gone!  What if you want to add more nodes to finesse your embroidery object even more?  When you are in reshape, just left click on the place where you want the node, and it will be inserted.  If you want the opposite node that was inserted, then select and hit spacebar to change it.

So instead of starting all over again on an object that isn’t quite right, try fixing your object using nodes – it is fast and easy and once you get the basics down, you will find its very easy to make adjustments and make better embroidery.

Happy Digitizing!

Now you know more about nodes!

SueB

A message from a nerd

Ok, thats me, I am the nerd.  Actually, I am surrounded by nerds, and thats a good thing.

The message from the nerd is:  STOP USING INTERNET EXPLORER.  PLEASE.  That is the biggest quick tip that I can give you, and will probably help you the most.  Seriously.

The nerd part of me cringes when I hear that people are still using internet explorer.  Its not that I take any issue with the program or anything like that, its that internet explorer is ANCIENT and doesn’t even work on half the websites that you are seeing.  You are missing things, you are missing formatting and you are missing the beauty of the internet.

Believe it or not, websites have to be coded specially for IE viewing – internet explorer can’t read most websites because if its old code…but it can’t  be fixed completely, so some of the websites that you are on with IE will not be showing you the whole website.  No matter how much code I add to my website, IE can’t keep up with it – its too old and can’t read what I am adding.

A perfect example would be when people buy our videos.  In other web browsers, there are no issues in any way.   You click download and it downloads the video to your computer.  However, if you are still using IE, you click download, and it streams the video instead of downloading it.  Right there, that should be enough to switch.  STREAMS the video?  what are you supposed to do with that?  If you pause or have to come back to it at a later time, you have to do it all over again and it counts as a download to our website.  Why oh Why would you want that?  IE can’t read my website when it says the command download – IE reads ????? and decides to stream it.

I hate to think that people are missing out on some beautiful websites, or graphics or even typography – the whole package – on websites because they are using IE.  You are missing out on things- whenever there is an issue with a website, its IE.    IE can be frustrating to anyone – there are always going to be issues.  Read that again, most of the issues you are having with websites – reading it, downloading things, purchasing items, etc. are all because you are using an old, ancient archaic web browser that is so far behind in the times, it can’t even read what you want.

So, then the question is, why don’t they fix IE so it works?  Well, they have not and they will not – and by “they” I mean microstoft – they are not going to update IE, it is what it is – they have come out with a new browser – Microsoft Edge that is a completely new browser.  Thats how old and ancient IE is, they won’t even update it, they started a whole new browser.

Most people use Chrome or Firefox BECAUSE THEY WORK.  THEY WORK ALL OF THE TIME FOR EVERYTHING.  Now, I am a Mac person, so I use Safari.  Same thing – it works.

So listen to the message from a nerd:  stop using Internet Explorer and come over to the other side and have hassle free browsing with another browser.  A new browser is free to use- Chrome and firefox for example.  Its easy to download, and you can easily remove the little icon at the bottom of your screen, and replace it with the Chrome icon.

Unknown

NO.  STOP USING INTERNET EXPLORER

CHROME OR FIREFOX (or just about any other browser) WILL MAKE YOU MUCH HAPPIER.  PLEASE CHANGE.  DON’T WAIT, RUN.  CHANGE.  If you need help adding or removing the icon from your bottom task bar, I will gladly walk you through that – its super easy and will take 2 right clicks to do it.

-Nerd

WILCOM HATCH CLASS 1: BEGINNER DIGITIZING

Ready to start a new embroidery adventure with me? Here is the first Classroom tutorial for Wilcom Hatch!!

THE VIDEO IS ONE HOUR LONG, AND YOU CAN DOWNLOAD THE VIDEO TO KEEP AND REVIEW AS NEEDED.  WORK AT YOUR OWN PACE!!

Lets start digitizing and create the awesome owl embroidery design! Step by step instruction will take you through the entire design: from bringing in the jpeg image, sizing it, placing your points and changing the stitch angles. Included are holes, filling holes and working with small objects.

Lets have some embroidery fun! Don’t forget to pick up the image in our Facebook Group:  Wilcom Hatch Tips and Tricks  so you can work on the design along with me – and don’t forget to post your homework in the group.

From this:

Wilcom Hatch V5 class 1

to this!

CLASS 1 OWL FINISHED

Join us for this step by step instructional tutorial for beginners that starts from importing the jpeg and takes you all the way to adding the lettering.  Lots of information!

Click HERE to get your FREE copy of the Wilcom Hatch/V5 Class 1 Tutorial.

A Little Hatch Embroidery Inspiration

I do spend quite a bit of time working on videos, blogs and answering tons and tons of questions.   I am absolutely not complaining, I do all of these things because I want to, not because I have to or that its my job.  I already have a full time + job making patches.  Embroidery has always been a passion of mine, and I am always happy to share my experiences as much as possible.

I really do appreciate all of the likes and subscribers on Youtube – that keeps me going!  Not to mention all of the likes, shares and thank you notes on Facebook – that also keeps me going too and I love it all!!  I would like to have 10 zillion subscribers and 10 zillion likes, LOL.  OK, well 10 zillion is a big number – but I plan on doing something grand if we ever reach 10,000 likes or subscribers.  I like to think BIG.

Every once in a while someone will share their story.  As you all know by now, here at OML Embroidery we are all about embroidery and the different software that we use.  I do like them all, but the newest one Hatch has my attention for a few reasons – its a very powerful program, its easy to use and its not missing any big things in it – everything you need is right there – to name a few reasons.  Most of all, I think Hatch will open the doors for embroiderers – all embroiderers from beginner to advanced – because of its brilliant user interface and its powerful program. And I like new doors being opened – opened doors lead to opportunities!

So here is the inspiration for the weekend.  This person has been reading my blog and following along with all of the writing, videos and information on Hatch.  Although they have 2 other embroidery programs that they have struggled with for years, Hatch was the program that “opened the embroidery door” for them:

“Thanks for your insightful comments. I’ve been struggling with Embird for years and with Brother PES software for many years prior to that. I’ve been a home, hobby embroiderer since the first home machines came out but just couldn’t make the digitizing software do what I wanted. That changed when you posted your new Wilcom Hatch tutorials. I downloaded the 30 day trial as you suggested and have successfully created, converted, and sewn out several simple, but original designs. I’m thrilled and can’t thank you enough! I wouldn’t have taken this step without your tutorials and encouragement. After playing with Hatch for several days I knew I’d found what I’ve been searching for all these years and bought the digitizer package last night. Hatch makes sense to me in ways Embird and PES never have. And the tools and functions are so darn much fun I can’t wait to get back in and play some more! I’m in love and so grateful that you introduced this to your readers. Please keep the hatch videos coming. Wilcom has some nice tutorials but I like yours much better. Your explanations are clear and concise and your enthusiasm is contagious! Thanks again. OML and Hatch ROCK!”

What a wonderful success story!

Here is what you can take from this story:  Never give up.  Do not be afraid to try something new, take a different approach or learn something new – you never know what is going to happen!

I have said this in a few videos and blogs – if you are not happy with your current software, are struggling or are not able to get the results you want – then why are you using it?  TRY SOMETHING NEW.  You never know what will happen!  You have nothing to lose – Hatch is free for 30 days – and you have lots to gain:  confidence, happiness, a sense of accomplishment and a nice path on your way to better digitizing to name a few! 

Don’t forget to join our Facebook group:  Wilcom Hatch Tips and Tricks  so you can share your accomplishments and your progress with Hatch.  We love to see your work!!

And for everyone out there that is  using  Wilcom Hatch and loves it as much as we all do – then SHARE – get the word out everywhere and anywhere – like things, subscribe, share posts, share videos SHARE – and maybe you will help someone else!  Make your voice heard -shout it out – be passionate and enthusiastic about Hatch – you never know who is listening!!

Happy Digitizing everyone, and have a great weekend. I am going to finish work and spend some of my weekend “off time” digitizing.

More Hatch videos on Monday 🙂

 

 

 

Creating outlines and offsets

I had a question on Youtube today about Hatch’s ability to do “knockdown” stitches.  While Hatch does not have a button for one click knockdown stitches, it has something better – MORE STITCH CONTROL!  Woohoo!  This is great because it enables you to do more things than just create one certain stitch.

Lets walk through it step by step:

First, go to the lettering panel and type a  few words (a name, maybe) and then click back on the select button.

Open up the EDIT OBJECTS PANEL (the panel of twirl down menus on the right) and go near to the bottom and look for the tulip and the words CREATE OUTLINES AND OFFSETS create offsets and outlines

(make sure you have the letters selected or else the option will be greyed out)

an Outlines and offsets pop up will.  This is the awesome part because you have some good stitch selections and stitch control going on.  outlines

If you look at the pop up, you can do object outlines and/or offset outlines, and each has its own selections.

Object outlines:  If you want the object outlined, then select this option by ticking the check box.  This will add an outline to the text in this example, but it will work for any object.  You can select the type of stitch too – from backstitch, motif, satin line, single run, stem stitch or triple run, depending on the look that you want.  The next drop down menu is for the thread color for the outline.  After that, you have the choice on what you want done with overlapping objects:

1… individual outlines – all outlines created will be full outlines

  1.  common outlines – the intersecting outlines will be welded or combined into a single outline
  2. trimmed outlines – the overlapped portions of outlines will be trimmed by the overlapping objects.

Each selection will give you a different look.  Go ahead, try each of them!

The next area is OFFSET OUTLINES.   Offset outlines are outlines of the object that are stepped or spaced away from the object that you are offsetting.  you can select the size of the offset and the number of offsets that you want to add.

Next you can pick the color of the offsets

The last part is what to do with multiple objects from the offset:

  1.  individual offsets – all offsets created will be full offsets
  2. Common offsets – the intersecting offsets will be welded/combined into a single offset.

Depending on the look that you want you can select either one – the welding makes a very cool effect.

Once you have made your selections, click OK. Taa-Daa!  Isn’t that awesome???

knockout stitches

In this picture you can see that OML Embroidery is outlined (close to the letters) with a running stitch in green.  The other green lines are the offset lines.

Each of the green offset lines are separate objects.  That means that once you have created them, you can change them like any other object!  You can click up top to make them a fill stitch, or keep them as outline and change the stitches to a motif stitch.

If you want to do knockdown stitches – select one of the offset lines, change it to a fill stitch and then change the density – you have more stitch control so you can make the stitches less dense to flatten the loft of the garment that you are working on.  These stitches are especially effective with towels and “furry” materials – it makes the embroidery look awesome!

outlines and outlines

of course I played around with the offset lines a little bit 🙂

  1.  I changed the offset lines to a motif stitch.
  2. I changed the first offset line to a fill stitch and then played around with the different kinds of tatami stitches until I found one that I liked.
  3. I clicked on Create Outlines and Offsets again and created an outline for the green tatami stitches, just to give it an awesome look – i changed the color to red, too.

There you have it!!  That is how to make outlines and offsets quickly and easily in Hatch!  Once you make an offset, its easy to make your own “knockdown” stitches with more stitch control!

 

Wilcom Hatch: Priced Right

I know we have been talking about Wilcom Hatch a lot lately, but I am still so excited about this program!

Although we do have a commercial level embroidery digitizing program, I have always wanted Wilcom software – the commercial software!  Every few months I go to Wilcom’s site to see if somehow, some way we can manage to get our hands on the software.  The last time I checked, I saw a picture of WILCOM HATCH.  HATCH?  what the heck is Hatch?  so i clicked on the picture and smiled.  Finally, Wilcom that I can afford!!  Woohoo!  And its all in one package, everything I need.  That is how I found out about Wilcom Hatch and it has been non stop Hatch ever since!

I wondered, as I was downloading the free trial, that is actually free and is fully functional – so you can test stitch the designs that you digitize in Hatch – is Hatch going to be as powerful and as good as Wilcom?  And the answer is YES.  Although I still don’t have the Wilcom commercial software to compare to, I do have other embroidery software that I can use as a comparison, including commercial software.  And Hatch pretty much beats them all – its powerful, everything works, its fast and it has all the tools you will need.

I think a lot of people just see “Wilcom” and immediately think that they can’t afford it, so why bother.  Its Wilcom, we all know it is the best software out there, but only commercial big companies can afford to use it.  Not any more.  Hatch comes along and changes everything.   Every day so far I say ” I am happy to have a piece of the Wilcom Pie”  meaning that I am happy to have ANY Wilcom software!!  And it’s true, I am happy!!

So what about pricing for Hatch?  In this video, I take you to the Hatch website and show you all around, show you the prices, the three modules, the add-ons and where to start.  Personally, I got the advanced digitizing level because I need every tool that they have to offer!  Plus, who can live without their layouts module?  Not me, that’s for sure.

Do yourself a favor and check out this quick minute video on Wilcom Hatch:  Priced just right and see the website and prices for yourself.  You will be impressed!

 

Embroidery: Think outside the box, design what you see…

EMBROIDERY INSPIRATION FOR THE WEEKEND:

In our classes and in any video that I produce, I am forever saying THINK OUTSIDE THE EMBROIDERY BOX.  What does that mean?  It means you don’t have to stick to all of the rules or traditions with embroidery, you can think or “see” embroidery differently and come up with designs that are completely original and one of a kind.

Don and I work together ever day, but we see embroidery completely differently! When we both look at a jpeg or a vector design, we see different results in embroidery.  We both think outside the box, just maybe on other sides of the box.  We both do amazing embroidery, but we create completely differently.  Don has an amazing eye for details, and I see thinks in a more artistic fashion, if that makes any sense.  I see bright colors and flowing stitches and everything fancy.   We did an experiment once – a patch customer didn’t exactly know what he wanted from his design.  Don took the picture and worked on it and so did I – the exact same picture – and we came up with completely different custom patch results!!  We had a good laugh over that one – and of course we let the customer decide which one he liked best.    The customer said it was very difficult to decide – they were both good, and both different.

So yes, think outside the embroidery box.  If you have a picture that you really like, what can you do with it?  You can use it as a backdrop for something interesting, you can take elements out of the picture, you can take the “feeling” of the picture and make a whispy – artsy design – or you can add all those elements together and come up with something interesting and different.

Don loves working with redwork and blackwork designs- it seems to be his thing.  And when he looks at a design, he can “pull out” the important parts of the design to make into redwork – not all of the elements of course, but just the ones that will look good.    He took a picture of our friend and his motorcycle and turned it into an embroidery design – and all of the details are in the right place.  We sent a picture of the design to a few of our friends just to test – and they were able to recognize the person in the design – I would say that is the right amount of detail in a design.

So yes, think outside the embroidery box.  When we are outside relaxing, or walking around – we can see embroidery design elements everywhere we go – a flower, some grass, our gardens, the cute weenie dogs we have – anything!  Try it – you might be surprised at what you can come up with.   Snap a picture with your phone – then you have that picture to bring into your embroidery.  It doesn’t matter what embroidery program you are using, the results will be the same:  a one of a kind embroidery design.

burtch redwork.png

GRADIENT FILLS

Gradient fills are awesome – and generally difficult to accomplish.  And if you can do them correctly, they are hard to see on screen.  Wilcom Hatch has all of this covered, and more.

I have had a bit of a hard time with gradient fills in other software – they are usually a bit complicated and I don’t get the results that I want – I can handle complicated and I can figure it all out – but when its all said and done, its not enough of a gradient to blend the thread colors like I wanted to.  Also, I don’t always want a gradient going from top to bottom, I want the gradient from side to side, and even at an angle.

If you have not used gradient fills in your embroidery, now is the time using Wilcom Hatch.  I get the exact results that I wanted, plus its easy to make changes with the gradient – lots of stitch control as well as the angle of the fill can be changed too!  If you don’t know what a gradient fill is, here is a screen shot of the one I was working on for the video:

Screen Shot 2016-05-06 at 2.21.26 PM.png

You can see by the picture that the top and the bottom of the square is darker than the rest:  thats a gradient – you could say that its almost a shading fill!  The top and the bottom parts are more dense – that means that there are more stitches closer together in the top and the bottom, and the density gradually gets thinner or less dense – and then in the middle the density is pretty open – a nice light and airy stitching in the middle.  The again the stitches gradually gets thicker, until the bottom part is the normal density.  It is a great effect to use on just about any design – of course, make sure that your gradient section is large enough for the gradient to actually show – the bigger the better for this one – the larger object will show the gradual stepping of the density much better.

Thats quick and easy to do.  The next problem is – what if you don’t want the gradient to go top and bottom?  I guess you could rotate the shape and mess around like that, but really if you rotate this shape its going to be different – longer top and bottom rather than side to side- so then you will have to change some nodes to make the shape the same.  Nah, I can’t be bothered to have to do all of that.  Wilcom Hatch has a great solution – change the angle lines to change the gradient.  Just like that, and I love gradients again!Screen Shot 2016-05-06 at 2.21.10 PM.png

BOOM!  THERE IT IS.  the angle line is shown with nodes outside the object itself, so you can easily move stuff around to get the look that you want.  That is an amazing amount of stitch control – and I like it!!

So there you have it GRADIENT FILLS that are easy to do, and completely custom, too!  If you would like step by step instructions, check out my quick tip video below.

WILCOM HATCH: RADIAL STITCHES

Another awesome stitch effect that is available on Wilcom Hatch:  RADIAL STITCHES.  If you don’t know what radial stitches are, keep reading!  Its a great effect that adds dimension, interest and complexity to any embroidery design.

Radial stitches are similar to contour stitches, in that they move around in a radius from a point.  One of the big differences is where that centre point is located.  In Wilcom Hatch, you can actually move that centre point anywhere you want in the design, even off the design!  This means that you can have the stitches radiating out from any point that you want – and you can change the entire look of the design.

Screen Shot 2016-05-05 at 11.10.01 AM

In the picture above, I used a tatami stitch with a pattern and set the centre point outside of the first oval, and then used the circle copy feature to make this flower.  As you can see, the ovals merged and the radial stitch still kept its pattern!  I added a plain tatami circle in the middle, and just like that I have a flower – an interesting flower that has a pattern, style dimension and interest!  For a 1 minute flower, i think it looks pretty good!!!

In the picture below, i have set up the oval:  under digitize tools, draw a circle and then apply the radial stitches to it, then use the reshape tool to move the centre point to just below the bottom end of the oval.

Screen Shot 2016-05-05 at 11.11.11 AM

After the oval shape element has been set up, then I went to the layout panel and picked the Circle Copy tool and played around with it until i got the shape that I wanted – a pretty little flower.  I merged all of the ovals into one piece to create my cute little flower embroidery.

Check out this quick tip video and see the Radial Stitch in action!