Tag Archives: machine embroidery

Embroidery and Sewing shopping online at Wish. Was it worth it?

Let’s go shopping at wish.com for some cheap machine embroidery and quilting and sewing notions. In this video, I am going to show you what I ordered online including some online fabric vinyl. Have you tried shopping online to look for the best deals? How about Wish.com – everyone hears about the cheap prices for sewing and embroidery supplies. I picked some everyday sewing and quilting notions. Some of the sewing supplies that I looked at for my brother sewing machine, McDreamy (the brother Dream Machine) were hard to find, and I was not sure if it would work on my sewing machine. I ended up purchasing some sewing machine feet for sewing and a few other things to use on the sewing machine, as well as vinyl for applique designs. I purchased some mermaid vinyl to see if it would work. That one is a big NO. The piece was really thick and really small! I won’t be using it on my embroidery machine or sewing machine. I purchased some pretty gold vinyl that looks like pleather or fake leather. I really like this purchase – it is a larger piece of vinyl, but I think compared to prices in the USA it is probably expensive. In my quest to have my sewing room organized, I thought that a cute bobbin organizer or bobbin tree would be a good purchase. Nope, that one is not going to be good. It looks cute, but it falls apart easily, and I think I would have my sewing bobbins all over the place. The biggest purchase of the day was a kit of 65 different sewing feet! I have not tested the feet on my sewing machine but at first glance, they look like awesome sewing machine feet! I am looking forward to testing them out on my sewing machine! My final conclusion is a recommendation that you go to your local sewing store or quilting store and make your purchases there. While wish.com seems like a great deal, most of my purchases are not going to be used. Most quilting stores will have all of the supplies that you need. The benefit would be supporting your local quilting store and you can see the sewing or embroidery supplies before you purchase them. The vinyl and the sewing machine feet are good, but the rest is simply a waste of money.

Happy shopping (locally)

Sue Brown

OML Embroidery

OML Embroidery University

Extra stuff – links and reminders for the channel:

MACHINE EMBROIDERY EDUCATION. FOR EVERYONE. LEARN. STITCH. SMILE. DESIGNS IN MACHINE EMBROIDERY PRODUCTS: Please use the code or link for ANY PURCHASES: SUSAB58 or this link: http://www.shop.dzgns.com/OML IF YOU WANT TO GET EMBRILLIANCE OR UPGRADE EMBRILLIANCE, Please use my affiliate link: https://bit.ly/2SdMvx2 . All $$ will be rolled back into this channel in the form of giveaways, new tools, more tech to make better videos! SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL by subscribing to the channel, liking the video and sharing the video to let us know you want MORE! Turn on notifications so that you won’t miss a video! Lots of cool videos and classes coming up soon and everything is FREE. I have lots of classes and some BIG MACHINE EMBROIDERY ideas coming up, so make sure you subscribe and support me on this journey together! Don’t worry, everything is free – and embroidery fun, too!

6 Common Machine Embroidery HOOPING Mistakes

The 6 Common Embroidery Hooping Mistakes that change the outcome of your embroidery work. True Story. Read on, fellow embroiderers.

Hooping Skills:  the most important skill to learn in embroidery.

I have said it before, and I will keep saying it:  YOU ARE ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR HOOPING SKILLS.

I know, I know.  I am such a nag, right?  Nah, not really.  I just want to get everyone to see that there is in fact, a right way and a wrong way when you are hooping.  How do I know this?  Years and years of experience, thousands of embroidery designs stitched on just about every fabric/item you can think of,  more learning, and tons of time figuring it all out.  So why not take advantage of what I know, and then you know how to do it right?  Why not set yourself apart from everyone else who does embroidery? You can do better, I just know it.

You are only as good as your hooping skills:  It makes sense, doesn’t it?  You can have the most beautiful embroidery design on the screen, and when you stitch it out, it looks terrible.  Why?  Hooping skills, that’s why!  If you don’t hoop something properly, it is not going to stitch properly.  If you don’t use the right size hoop, you may have mistakes.  If you don’t use the right kind of stabilizer, you will have issues.  Everything comes back to proper hooping skills.

Learn them, and learn them well.

Here are the 6 biggest mistakes in embroidery today.

  1. Using the wrong sized hoop for the job:

I see this time and time again – using the wrong sized hoop!  If you have a small design, you do not want to use a 5×7 hoop for that design – you want the smallest hoop that will fit your design.  You can figure this out in your software, or even on some machines.  My small single needle machine has some icons that tell you what sized hoop that you should be using.  Actually, it doesn’t tell you the right size, it shows you the size that your design will fit on.  It shows you the smallest size to the biggest size that is available.  Yes, the machine will stitch a 2×3 design on a 6×10 hoop, but that is not what you should be doing.   The smallest sized hoop for the design will ensure the proper stabilization and tension of the fabric and stabilizer when you hoop – and it will be easier to maintain that support when the design is embroidering.  If you use a bigger hoop, there is a bigger chance that the material will slip during embroidery.  Even if it slips a tiny bit, 1mm, that means that the part of your design that is stitching will be 1mm out.  Ok, that might not be too much, but it is quite possible that it may happen a few times- and then you will be out of registration on your design.  And that looks bad.

  • Floating stabilizer instead of hooping it.

I am pretty sure we have gone over this one before.  Let’s all say it together. Ready?  Float a boat, not stabilizer.  Or fabric.  Or anything.  Floating is for boats, not embroidery.   If you want sub-par or OK, results, keep floating.  If you want professional level, better-than-OK embroidery that you can be proud of, learn how to hoop properly.

  • Not hooping the fabric or garment:

See above.  Say it all over again, one more time.  You need to hoop stabilizer AND fabric at the same time.  Basting and (gasp) pins are NOT the same thing as hooping.  Basting stitches may generally hold your fabric in place, but it is not hooped and does not have the same consistent final results.   You may think it is good enough, but in reality, it just isn’t.  There is nothing that can take the place of hooping.  So hoop everything, please.

This embroidery design is using the proper hoop size for the large design, the felt and stabilizer are hooped properly.

  • Pulling the fabric:

Yes, this is a big mistake when you are hooping, I see it all the time – and yes, I can tell from a picture that it was not hooped properly, and sometimes I can even tell the mistake.  And this is one of them!  When you are hooping properly, you take the material and the stabilizer and put the hoop together kind of tightly, and when you have everything just so you make the hoop tight so that it will hold everything together. Before you tighten the hoop, you can make some small adjustments, depending on the type of material that you are using and gently pull the fabric into place. What if the material isn’t quite in the right place?  What do you do?  Some people think it is ok to pull on the fabric (and stretch it)  to get it into the right position.  While it may be ok to flatten or pull slightly before you tighten the hoop, anything more than that will cause you so many issues!  Think about it, when you pull the fabric that is already hooped, you are basically stretching the fabric.  When you are finished embroidering, and remove the hoop, what is going to happen?  The fabric does not have anything holding it in the stretched position, so it is going to go back to its normal position, and that will cause some nasty puckering.  It is better to hoop again until you get it right, without stretching the fabric.  Keep hooping it until you get it right.  There really is no point embroidering anything if it doesn’t look great when you are done, right?  RIGHT?  Take your time, hoop properly and carefully.

  • Not hooping fabric because you are worried about Hoop burn:

Hoop burn is no excuse for not hooping something properly. Yes, hoop burn happens!  It really is not a big deal, and is easily fixed, and hoop burn will happen less and less the better you are at your hooping skills.  We have also talked about this one, all you need is a little bit of steam.  If you have hoop burn, have some tea – but before you make the tea, use a little bit of steam on your item to solve that hoop burn.  It is literally fixed in 5 minutes.  So don’t let hoop burn ruin your embroidery, learn to hoop properly and fix it quickly with a little bit of steam if you need to.

  • Not using the right stabilizer:

You need to use the right stabilizer for the embroidery and for the fabric that you are using.  Hatch takes the guesswork out of what stabilizer you should use for certain embroidery.  There are many types of stabilizer, but they fall into two categories:  cutaway and tearaway.    Cutaway offers more stability – it is thicker and more stable and you must use scissors to cut it away.  Tearaway is exactly how it sounds- you can tear it away instead of cutting it.  Obviously tear away is much thinner and less stable than cutaway.  There are also fusible stabilizers, water-soluble stabilizers, no show mesh stabilizers, and the list goes on and on.  What happens if you don’t use the right stabilizer?  Your embroidery will not look ok.  Again, if for some strange reason you are OK with just OK, then keep using water soluble stabilizers for the back of towels…or forget using stabilizers and have none.  Yes, your embroidery *may*look ok when you are done, and it may be ok, but it sure isn’t great.  A lot of people can take their OK embroidery off their machine and gift it or give it to a customer or a friend.  Hooah, you did your first or 100thembroidery.  What is going to happen when they wash it?  If you have no stabilizer, there is nothing to keep the stitches from moving around or clumping up and looking terrible.  People don’t think of this part when they are done with their embroidery.  Embroidery is meant to last through washings and regular use – but only if you stabilize it properly.  Otherwise, the first time they wash your work, they will never use it again, and they will never come back to you again.  Seriously.  That is how it works.

If you take a tea-towel and do one design with a WSS (water soluble stabilizer) and one with a cut away stabilizer, stitch them out and look at them.  OK, the cutaway is going to look sharper, be in registration and look GREAT.  The other one is probably OK.  Now wash them both.  Now, look at them side by side.  If you don’t believe me, try it for yourself.  The properly hooped and stabilized embroidery will still look great, and the other one, well, not so much.  I have seen people actually state that they will NOT use stabilizer on the back of anything because it doesn’t look nice with the stabilizer showing.  Well, that may be the case, but that is how it is done!  If you tidy up the stabilizer, it doesn’t look bad at all, but put your focus on the FRONT where the embroidery is – and when you ask your friend 6 months later “how is the personalized towel I made for you” the answer will be “it is still beautiful” if you use the right stabilizer for the job.  After all, you do embroidery so it will last right? You do embroidery for kids so they can enjoy it, right?  You do embroidery for customers so that they will keep coming back, right?  If you do embroidery that only lasts through a wash or two, do you really think they will be coming back?  No.  No, they wont.  I have a shirt that I embroidered about 10 years ago (it’s my favorite shirt) and I have washed it literally hundreds of times.  And it still looks great and I still get compliments on it.  Don’t you want that effect on your customers and friends?

My advice:  Learn hooping skills and stop taking short cuts.  You are only hurting yourself when you decide that hooping is too difficult to learn, so why bother?  This works fine.  The key word being FINE.  I don’t want just fine, I want long lasting beautiful embroidery that I can be proud of.  Oh, I know some of you are saying, “well, none of my customers/friends/kids have complained about it”  and that might be correct, however, they may not complain, but they will go elsewhere. Guaranteed.

Here is a quick video that shows you some of the basic hooping skills.  Even if you have been doing embroidery for a while, this video is going to give you a few pointers on how to hoop properly.  Learn it, and learn it well.  Once you start hooping correctly, your embroidery will change and look better.

Next week’s blog, we are going to talk about placement.  Once you get basic hooping done properly, we have to put that together with placement and how to hoop properly the first time so that your embroidery design is centered and is in the exact place that you want it, on any fabric.

Until next time, hoop properly and Happy Stitching!

Sue Brown

OML Embroidery

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Machine Embroidery on an iPad? YES PLEASE!

Get ready for a Wilcom Tutorial that will change how you see embroidery designs – literally!! In this video, I am going to show you how to view, resize and convert embroidery designs right on your iPad or Android device. Don’t believe me? Check out the video! Do you need to convert a PES file to a commercial DST stitch file on the fly? Grab your iPad and convert it! IT’S A FREE EMBROIDERY SOFTWARE FROM WILCOM: Do you want to view your machine embroidery designs on your iPad? How about resizing, mirroring and converting your machine embroidery designs. Add in printing out an embroidery template with all of the embroidery design’s information and you have your answer: WILCOM TRUESIZER WEB EDITION! In this OML video, I am going to show you exactly how awesome Wilcom’s embroidery program is, and exactly how to use this program. Remember that this embroidery program is NOT digitizing software – you are not going to be able to create an embroidery design from the beginning, but you can view, rotate, enlarge and convert embroidery designs on your iPad. Amazing! here is the link: https://www.wilcom.com/ All you have to do is register for an account – don’t worry, it’s easy to do, and then log in and BAM it’s done – you can view your embroidery designs on your iPad!! DID I MENTION THAT IT WAS FREE? Yep, totally free. all you have to do is provide them with your name, address and email address and you are in! It’s really that easy.

HERE IS A VIDEO THAT ANSWERS ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT HOW TO USE AN IPAD FOR EMBROIDERY.

Embroidery on an iPad from Wilcom.com

Take an old hoodie and make it amazing!

Check out this gorgeous sweatshirt that I made using Anita Goodesign Monogram designs!! In this video, I show you how to set up your designs and HOW TO HOOP THE SLEEVES!! This sweatshirt repurposing designs were created in 6 hoopings, including 3 for the sleeves, and ends up with a wow factor for the entire embroidery design, and my old sweatshirt looks amazing! I take you through step by step on how to set up your designs by printing out the templates and making sure they are straight on the sleeve, marking their position and then hooping. Hooping may take some time, but it is worth the time when you see the end result. Even if you don’t have large hoops, you can still do most of this layout with smaller hoops – it will take a few more hoopings to get the front done – I merged a few of the single designs and came up with a symetrical design that looks so pretty! You can position each of the single designs and mark the center and then hoop it as many times as you need to – it will still look great and no one will know how many hoopings you did! If you don’t have a sleeve hoop as I do, you can take apart the sleeve so you can have a flat surface to do the embroidery designs. This is a lot easier and you have more of the sleeve to work on – I could think of many ways to embroider an open sleeve so that it looks great!! I hope you guys like my hoodie and I hope that you will try to repurpose your old sweatshirts too! after all, if you don’t like the design that you create, you can simply toss an old sweatshirt, right?

MACHINE EMBROIDERY EDUCATION. FOR EVERYONE. LEARN. STITCH. SMILE.

IF YOU WANT TO GET EMBRILLIANCE OR UPGRADE EMBRILLIANCE, Please use my affiliate link: https://bit.ly/2SdMvx2 . All $$ will be rolled back into this channel in the form of giveaways, new tools, more tech to make better videos! SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL by subscribing to the channel, liking the video and sharing the video to let us know you want MORE! Turn on notifications so that you won’t miss a video! Lots of cool videos and classes coming up soon and everything is FREE. I have lots of classes and some BIG EMBROIDERY ideas coming up, so make sure you subscribe and support me on this journey together! Don’t worry, everything is free – and embroidery fun, too! No matter what software you use, you can pick up valuable digitizing and embroidery information from any of the videos! Make sure you join our Facebook Group: OML Embroidery University for lots of help on digitizing and embroidery – it is a great group with lots of supportive, helpful people from beginner digitizers and beginner embroiderers to advanced digitizers, commercial digitizers, and embroiderers. There is something for everyone!

you can do this too!!

Learn how to style, set up and hoop different areas of a sweatshirt INCLUDING HOOPING SLEEVES to take your hoodie from meh to WOW with the Victorian Monogram designs by Anita Goodesign! Here is the link to the set: https://www.anitagoodesign.com/product/victorian-monogram/

Easy Press for Better Applique

I have found a solution….the Cricut Easy Press 2.  Yep, I am loving this little gadget.   It fits nicely on my desk, in the hoop (yes, actually in the hoop) and the pad is just a bit bigger than the press itself.  That really works for me and my workspace!

The easy press is designed primarily for pressing on heat transfer vinyl or HTV for short.  Heat transfer vinyl is fantastic, and can work very well with embroidery.  So why not for applique and fabric?  I thought I would grab one and check it out.  You can get different sizes – I have the smallest one – its only 6×7, so it fits perfectly into my hoops – so one press and you are done.  It doesn’t take up a ton of space and has some handy features that make it easy to use.  

The first part that I like is the stand.  Plunk the easy press down and you are done.  It is flat so you don’t have to worry about anything falling over.  You won’t accidently burn yourself because the hot part is down and completely covered by the stand.   It has an auto off feature, a timer setting as well as a temperature setting.  Lots of safety, little space.  My kind of embroidery accessory. 

This accessory was designed for putting HTV on small items such as onesies or small children’s clothing.  If you have this awesome press, you can add cute designs to your list for customers!!  Onesies are hard to hoop and hard to stitch.  Pressing onsies with a cute design that you cut on your cutter in HTV takes no time at all – and it is just as cute!  You don’t have to worry about hooping, being off center, hooping accidents or watching your machine like a hawk.  Cut, press and peel – that’s it.  

If you are like me, I tend to get a bit lazy when it comes to ironing…so I leave my iron out, in full view, but I still don’t use it nearly enough!  I don’t have enough room for the pad to cover my desk to protect it, and I am really not going to go across the room to get to the ironing board.  I have 3 dogs, and they get playing, and I worry that they will bump the ironing board and the hot iron will fall.  Maybe that’s just me.

Check it out, keep and open mind – I find this tool helpful and it is really nice to have pressed fabric and finished products so easily.  Also, HTV can be sparkly and bright.  Also a bonus. 

Until next time,

Sue,

The Queen of Embroidery Gadgets and Accessories.

I’M BAAAACK!

After taking a week off because of medical issues, I am back and jumping in with both feet!

Today’s video is pretty cool – I am trying to cover as much as I can, for each cutter that I have.  I have the newest Cricut Maker, Silhouette Cameo 3 as well as the Brother Scan N Cut DX225 Innovis edition.  If you have one of those cutters, you will be in luck for getting videos!  Ha!

IN this video, I create an SVG in Hatch – there are more than one way to do this – and I am using Corel to help me create it.  Because why not?  Corel is there, might as well use it!

Once I have my nice SVG – remember that it is a SCALABLE vector graphic, so you will be able to resize it – I take it in to each of the 3 different software and make a cut file!

So easy, and your applique will never look the same!!

Enjoy!

WELCOME TO MY VLOG!

I get so busy with sharing everything and answering questions in the OML Embroidery University facebook group, I always forget to blog!!  Today, I remembered!  yay!  I will try to blog more, I have a whole bunch of blogs that are already written that I need to post.

OK, so for today, here is my Vlog.  Hopefully, it will also count as a blog post 🙂

Until next time

Happy Stitching!

 

Sue

#craftsy #craftsy.com #precut #omlembroidery #OML #halloweenfabric

CRAZY QUILTING 101: LET’S GET STARTED!

Have you ever wanted to learn how to crazy quilt in machine embroidery?  Here is your chance to get learning!

Crazy Quilting came about in the early 1800’s and was really popular.  The idea of crazy quilting came about by using up every scrap of very expensive fabric so that there would be no waste.  Back then, rich fabrics were really expensive, so every piece counted.  Literally!  people who could not afford such rich fabrics used whatever they had on hand, and then embellished it to make it look pretty.  Some of these quilts were actually sewn together using an old table-cloth as the foundation!  Whatever they had around would work!

Embellishments:  same thing as the fabrics, whatever embellishments you had would work.  They used buttons, small pieces of lace, ribbons and of course beautiful embroidery thread in different colors.  Pretty much anything worked, and the end results are very pretty!

Old Traditions:  there are a few old traditions that were applied to these hand-made crazy quilts.  There was usually saying on the front of the quilt or a name and date of the quilter.  More often than not, there would be a fancy initial somewhere on the quilt – either for the person receiving the quilt or the person who made the quilt.  There were special stitches that were used, and certain ways that the squares were divided.

I did quite a bit of research and looked at some stunning, beautiful quilts made with lavish and intricate embellishments.    I decided that it would be really fun to do these quilts on the embroidery machine.  Of course people have been doing this for years, and the results are awesome.  I thought it would be a great YouTube series to learn how to crazy quilt.  Here is the first video – basically an introduction and how to set up your blocks.  There are 3 parts to this block, so make sure you watch all of the videos.

What do you know about nodes? Save time with editing nodes!

Working with object nodes will save you time in the end.  If you make a mistake digitizing, you don’t have to start all over again – simply edit the nodes!!

Nodes are those little points that you place down every time you click the mouse when you are making an object.  Left click makes a straight node, and a right click makes a curved node.  What happens if you make a mistake, or want to change something in your object?  That is when the nodes come in handy.   Let’s go over a few things with nodes that will make object editing easier and faster than ever.

Once you have completed your object, and you want to make changes, the first thing you need to do is select the object (by clicking on it) and then click on the Reshape Icon  at the top left of your screen (this works for Wilcom E4 and Wilcom Hatch, but your sofware will be similar – look for editing nodes, nodes, edit button.   Once you click on that, the nodes will appear!  Now you can start working with the nodes to change or fix your embroidery object.

how to select nodes

There are two different kinds of nodes:  straight nodes and curved nodes.    The small yellow square indicates a straight node that forms a straight line or a cusp.  The light blue circle indicates a curved line.  Pretty easy to remember, right?  Square for straight, and circle for curves.

how to make curvesTo work with a specific node, you need to select that node first.  You can also select a bunch of nodes by left-clicking and dragging a bounding box around a group of nodes.  Once you click on a node, the node should turn dark blue – that is the darker blue color that lets you know that the node is now selected .  The other nodes will appear yellow.  These colors apply for Wilcom Hatch and Wilcom E4 – your software may have a different color scheme, but once you play around in “node mode” you will figure out the difference between selected nodes and non selected nodes.

Once you have selected that node, you can click and hold down your left mouse button and drag that node around and change your object.  If you were not precise enough in your node placement, you can quickly hop into reshaping (select your object first) and align your nodes,  and zoom right in and place them where they need to be placed!

Another thing you can do with nodes is change their type!  Yes you can – you do not need to delete and start your object all over again, you can do some fixing.  You can change your node from a curve to straight (circle to square) and vice versa – from a straight to a curve!  All you have to do is select the node (make sure it is dark blue) and hit the spacebar, and the node will change for you!  Of course, that will make big changes to your object, so if you don’t like it, hit spacebar again and it will go back to where you started – either back to a straight node, or a curved node.

There are a few more things you can try.  What happens if you add too many nodes or have nodes that you don’t need?  Select the node and hit the delete key.  It is that simple – select and delete and your node is gone!  What if you want to add more nodes to finesse your embroidery object even more?  When you are in reshape, just left click on the place where you want the node, and it will be inserted.  If you want the opposite node that was inserted, then select and hit spacebar to change it.

So instead of starting all over again on an object that isn’t quite right, try fixing your object using nodes – it is fast and easy and once you get the basics down, you will find its very easy to make adjustments and make better embroidery.

Happy Digitizing!

Now you know more about nodes!

SueB

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